How to….. DEEP STREAM SECTIONS
Fig #1 Basic straight deep river piece.
Single straight piece of deep stream. I firstly painted the stream area with a suitable emulsion. I use xxx. I also paint the end the same colour where the water will butt up to the next piece. Also, you will see the piece of 3mm foam sheet I use to seal the ends. Make sure you cut it long enough to bind on the small piece of bank on each end. Cutting it long is much better than cutting it short.
Fig #2 – Painted stream area with sealed ends.
Here you can see the river painted in its emulsion and the ends installed. I experimented with my adhesive and found that undiluted PVA applied to both the end of the piece and the foam, left to dry off a little, and then held in place creates a good bond. To keep it in place, having made sure it was properly lined up with the bottom of the foam level with the bottom of the hex, I placed it foam down and used the weight of the hex to hold it in place.
Once dry, I then steep the internal of the foam face with undiluted PVA. This ensures no permeation of resin and strengthens the bond between foam and hex. Pro Tip. I first also used more emulsion to ensure the bond was watertight. This resulted in paint on the end of the resin, which I found irritating!
Fig #3 flocking the banks.
You need to have a definite idea of how you want your river to look once complete. Obviously, you cannot go back and add to it once the resin is poured.
Here I have added dark green flock to the lower area of the bank, roughly to the height of the level I expect to fill with resin.
Fig #4 adding the streambed.
I use micro gravel for my streambed. This is simple to use. I apply unwatered PVA to the streambed all the way to each end, giving another good treatment of PVA to the join between hex and foam.
Simply pour in your micro gravel [or whatever you choose] and leave it to dry [remembering to pour off the excess before you pour your resin.]
The resin will hold the gravel in place of course, so if you wish to add a few larger pieces do so just before you pour the water effect.
I also add some appropriate tufts at this time. I’ve put up three pics of different pieces so you can get the full idea.
Fig #5 resin applied
Unfortunately, my excitement let me down at this point and we are missing a mid-pour pic.
I use a quality epoxy resin that does not noticeably shrink, so I do not clamp or otherwise hold down my pieces. Much will depend on what kind of water effect you use.
I have found the best results come from more than one pour.
It also gives you the opportunity to add ‘things’ that exist or float below the waterline.
I use a simple thin black marker to create shoals of fish, or microscopic pieces of wood to represent flotsam in the water.
NB The resin loves to ‘climb’ the flock. This is why I only flock to the water level. This will allow a dry look to the flock you subsequently use.
Pro tips. 1- Make sure your resin is absolutely dry before you do any work on the hex. 2- make sure you mix your resin correctly and in the right proportions. I did have a small mare with one mix that cost me a number of pieces and an awful lot of time and effort to put right.
Figure #6 complete resin pour with ends stripped
Again…make sure the resin is completely dry before you start working with it.
The foam ends should easily come away by using a craft knife to start the separation process.
The resin end can be sanded carefully to ensure a good fit with the next hex, but this is rarely needed if you have got your foam sealing right.
Then paint the grassy areas in the standard Salisbury Stone emulsion, not forgetting to paint the sides too.
Insert pic of straight stream finished.
Figure #7 the finished article
Flock the earth area in the same way as all other hexes and add whatever extras you need, remembering that less can often be more